cruising

Foray into France: Part II (the boat, Paris orientation, and Versailles)

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After we finished our time on our own (the blog for that is here) on Monday, by midafternoon Tuesday it was time to board the boat. Our friends Paul and Julie, whom we haven’t seen since October, were waving at us from the sun deck!

I always forget to take pictures of the boat itself, but those are easy to find online. We were on the Tauck Sapphire. The ship was lovely. We were in room 317. It’s the very back room near the stairs by Arthur’s. The room is VERY small and is one of its kind on the boat. The cost is significantly lower than the other larger rooms with French balconies. We didn’t necessarily realize that most of square footage from this room was going to be taken away from storage and from the bathroom. The closet was TINY, and there were a couple of cubbies on the side where we could put clothing as well.

Had I known, I would have brought some removable command hooks. The walls aren’t metal like an ocean cruise, but I could have put up some 3M strips. The bathroom was actually hilarious. The commode portion was smaller than an airplane, and it was up very high for some reason. And the shower? The entrance was SO narrow that the Bear and I had to suck in and hope we didn’t eat too much on the cruise to enter Ha! If that weren’t enough, the towel racks were aligned so it made the passageway even narrower.

Still, no real complaints, it made for a laugh! And, it was so close to the all-day casual dining spot that we could pop in to Arthur’s any time for a coffee. Plus, it was like we had a second bathroom right outside our door. I’m not a big breakfast eater before an excursion, so it was great to walk in just to get a quick yogurt in the mornings.

This cruise was unusual to us because it didn’t actually go anywhere at all the first day. It stayed docked all night long. This could be good for anyone who had any sort of flight problems. Still, like most river cruises, each evening began with a cocktail hour explaining the plans for the next day, followed up with dinner, and then ended with cocktails and generally some entertainment. We had an onboard pianist, Arsenio, and were introduced to the staff that evening. Most of the staff were from eastern Europe, particularly Hungary and Romania. Interestingly, very few spoke French. Some struggled a little with English, but most servers were incredible The hotel manager and the tour guides were fantastic, too! It was a great crew all around.

I know some have been upset with Tauck that they don’t giver a paper itinerary anymore. Instead, you scan a QR code that gives specifics of the day to day. I actually liked it, but it only did three days at a time, so if you forgot to screenshot, you couldn’t go back. Luckily, I didn’t forget.

The dinners on the ship were quite similar and there was plenty of variety. The choices changed every night, but if none appealed, there was always the option for chicken, steak, or fish. We never ate at Arthur’s, which offered more casual options,. It was also open all day long and all evening. I didn’t get breakfast or lunch pictures, but they were what you would expect and quite good. Both had buffets including meats, cheeses, salads, fruits, etc – and butter. Don’t forget the butter! But, also, both breakfast and lunch had a la carte that could be ordered in addition. I had a GREAT Rueben for lunch one day, and the fries were incredible.



The only two nights that were different for dining were the seafood buffet and the chef’s dinner- which was one of the best meals I’ve had on any cruise, ever. One night, we also had dinner at a chateau. The first night’s dinner wasn’t particularly dressy. On the chef’s dinner night and at the chateau a FEW men dressed in blazers, but long pants and a collared shirt were more the norm. On regular nights on the boat, men sometimes wore shorts. Women, for the most part, either wore dresses or nice blouses and capris or pants. On the excursions, most of the men wore shorts- including many of the local guides.

For our first day, since we had never been in Paris before, the Bear and I opted for the city orientation tour. Both still suffering from jet lag, however, we didn’t really sleep the first night on the boat. The bear decided to forgo to bus trip to sleep in. I’m really glad that Tauck started the trip this way. It was a very SLOW start to sit in an air conditioned bus while we stopped only once for a closer view of the Eiffel Tower. Other then that, we just saw landmarks through the windows. The traffic was nuts, and I was fine with that plan. The tour ended going inside the VERY crowded but very beautiful Palais Garnier which I had only seen through the windows of the hotel the days before.

After that, I had a few hours of the formerly dreaded “free time.” I am not a shopper. I’m not likely to explore on my own, BUT this time, I had friends with me who had been to Paris before MANY times! So, they gave a list of local suggestions, I opted for the Pantheon and going to see dead guys, and it was truly impressive to see the tombs of so many recognizable names in France: Victor Hugo, the Curies, Voltaire, Josephine Baker… and many more…

From there, we stopped for lunch at a bistro. Tauck “gave us” 30 euros to spend. That part made me laugh! It’s literally a $20,000 trip for a week, but they gave us 30 euros. Kinda cute, but kinda funny. We had been taught by our local guide earlier that day that the way to be French was to sit at a cafe, stare straight forward at other people, and judge. Ha! She was very dry, very beautiful, and very funny. I’m not much of a judger myself, but I enjoyed the concept.

I had an opportunity to tour the inside of the Louvre, or to go back to the boat. I opted for the latter. The opera house had been so crowded, I couldn’t imagine the Louvre! That night, we were going to do the sail away. I was excited! Yes, we were only going a little tiny distance to Poissy… but why be on a boat if you don’t move, and the views from the top were amazing! The bear was still feeling like hibernating at that point, which made it extra fun to have Paul and Julie on the boat, too. I often go to the nighttime entertainment on boats and at resorts solo, but I like going with friends. I wasn’t expecting much from the jazz trio, but they were FAR better than I was thinking. It was a very talented and very fun time with some HILARIOUS audience participation.

It was amazing the amount of daylight we had on the cruise. The sun came up around 5:30 every morning and didn’t set until almost 11. The days were hot but beautiful- and definitely not as hot as Texas. The next day was for the morning at Versailles.

I was so excited about Versailles! On our last European trips we had only gone to spots that were more off the beaten path. On this cruise, I felt like we were hitting all of the biggies! Versailles to me was an equal combination of impressive and gaudy. The amount of money represented is both vile and awe inspiring. Still, it was interesting to me to learn that I have always believed the propaganda surrounding Marie Antoinette and the quote of “let them eat cake” – which never even happened. I was not surprised that the palace was filled with absolute SWARMS of people, and I was glad to have “on our own” time in the garden. It’s so massive that we only explored part of one half. We went to the more manicured section, but it does give us a reason to return some day.

On the way back, we all got to have a macaron from our tour guide and then spent the afternoon sailing. I love the sailing days when you have no choice but to hang out and relax. We passed lovely little towns on the way to Rouen and attended a fun cooking demonstration where one of the chefs prepared a very rich and tasty Mushroom Bourguignon. (Apparently the key is that you must use at least three different types of mushrooms and pay attention to the times when you add each type.) Then, up on top of the deck, we saw the lovely scenery as we made our way to Normandy.

Prior to the evenings briefing, the crew provided us with an “Apero.” This was a new term to me, and I realized it’s what I actually love to do for dinner ALL the time. It was some sausages, cheeses, escargots, and frog legs all paired with wines. This is what I would eat every day of my life if it were possible.

After the mushrooms and the cheeses, there was no need for any dinner, so it was back up to the sun deck to watch the world continue to go by before our excursion the next morning.

Delightful Douro: Days 2 and 3 of 7

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It was nice to start the week slowly. There was to be no bus excursion on day one and nothing to do except sail until later in the day. Other tours I’ve been on have been “go, go, go!” Although there was plenty to stay occupied, the overall pace of this trip was FAR more relaxing than others.

We had quite a bit of sailing to do on the first morning, and we started at 5:45. With our room all the way at the back of the ship, we definitely felt the rumble as the motors started, and I immediately opened the shade to lay back in bed and watch the world.

Since we knew we’d cruise for awhile, the bear went up a deck and got us some fancy coffees and croissants, and before breakfast we made our way through our first lock. There are five total on the river, and they never cease to be fascinating to me. Going up and down stairs on a river is the coolest thing! I’m also amazed by the way that the boat itself adjusts to the low bridges as we just barely slide under.

We could have engaged in some of the activities of the morning, including tile painting and another class. Instead, we just had a big breakfast and took part in the next lock. That afternoon, shortly after lunch, it was time to enter what was the mouth of the Douro valley and the beginning of the port industry at Regua.

We had a chance to visit the port museum there. There was a fun interactive part where we got to smell the different aromas we could expect in port and the REALLY fun interactive part where we got to TASTE port, including a 10-year tawny and my first port cocktail: white port and tonic. I’ve never thought of using port as part of a mix, but they did this a lot in Porto. The museum was just a walk from the ship, so we could look around town a little as well as we made our way back.

Back on the ship, it was again time to eat. We had some fantastic starters; then, I chose a vegetarian option that was very tasty but very small. The bear loved his octopus. We didn’t meet any real “friends” on this trip. We are on the younger side (I’m 51, the bear is 48), and that may have had something to do with it. Most of the other people on the cruise were retired and seemed to be in their mid to late 60s up through early 80s. Still, most nights we had the opportunity to meet new people and dine with others. There were no tables for two on the ship in the larger dining room, but many nights you COULD sit with just two at a table for four or more if you desired. Many nights we did, some nights others joined us.

After dinner, we took second place in a trivia contest before retiring to bed to look forward to the next day and our first bus excursion to Lamego.

This was one of the days I had the most trouble deciding which tour I wanted to take, and also one of the tours we were supposed to decide in advance. Initially, I had chosen to go to Mateus Palace with the gorgeous architecture and gardens. Once hearing the overview, I changed my mind to Lamego. Kayaking was another option on this trip, but we’re not much for kayaking and even the tour director seemed to indicate the conditions weren’t particularly favorable for it.

Even if you didn’t take an excursion at all, the entertainment director led short hikes through the areas on the riverfront, or you you could just stay on the boat. Unlike the cruises that sailed at night, however, the excursions were quite short. Normally, you were only off the boat for four or five hours a day.

Ultimately, the idea of more port and trying some Portuguese food led us to choose Lamego. (And it was decisions like these that made us decide we want to return on this trip so that we could do both.)

On this cruise, Scenic told us we’d never be on the bus for more than about an hour at a time, and most of the rides were actually around 30 minutes. Like other luxury cruise companies, the busses are very nice. They have HUGE picture windows on both sides and in the front. There is even a bathroom on the bus, but you are pretty much discouraged from using it and would likely have to be a contortionist to get in it. We were told in Portugal that you are only allowed to use it if the bus is stopped and pulled over on the side of the road.

So, we were in a country in Europe that is primarily Catholic… and when you’re in Europe, you look at a lot of churches! So today was the day for the first one. Six hundred and eighty six steps up from the city center is the cathedral. A truly remarkable place! People had the option of walking down the stairs (which women climb UP on their knees during the “Our Lady of Remedies” celebration) or the option to take the shuttle. I went down ONE flight of stairs… and turned around and went right back up and took the shuttle. I decided not to destroy my knee for the rest of the trip. The bear walked down and told me that although it was very pretty, I had made the right decision.

Back in the city center we admired some statues, went into some shops, and wandered a museum on our free time before taking the bus back to the ship.

We knew we’d be having a bigger meal that night because we had been invited to our Portabello’s dinner, so we elected to go the lighter route of just having the river café food that day. for lunch. Besides, hotdogs and grilled cheese sandwiches always hit the spot.


Then, for the remainder of the afternoon, I saw the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever witnessed in my life. Words can not begin to describe it. As we passed by winery after winery – port house after port house. We passed through the heart of the port wine region, and I couldn’t take enough pictures. It’s been a week since I had this amazing day, and it’s hard to believe it was even real. It was nearly eight hours that we sailed through the most beautiful sights I’ve ever beheld. Several people got in the pool. There were other activities going on as well, but most of the 96 people aboard sat on the top deck to watch while bartenders and butlers brought us snacks and drinks. It was amazing!

Eventually, it became time to get ready for our Portobello’s dinner. The dress code for all dinners was “smart casual” and most women wore dresses or nicer tops with their bottoms. Men wore trousers and collared shirts – button down for the most part. A lot of what I read said that people weren’t dressy and “no one” wore jackets. That was not the case on my cruise. Some were more casual than others, but for the most part people dressed for dinner, and they especially dressed for the Captain’s dinner on the second night, their Portobello’s invitation, the concert, and some dressed for the final night.

Portobello is a set, five course menu. All Scenic cruises have it, although the restaurant has different names on different ships. The idea is to highlight the cuisine of the area, while the chef cooks in a live presentation. It was fantastic. The clams were AMAZING!

It had been an absolutely amazing day, and I knew the next day was a BIG one. It was time for the 2 hour bus ride into Salamanca for the all day excursion.