portugal

Delightful Douro: Days 6 and 7- The End.

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We woke the final morning to our last day in the Douro wine region. Our tour director, Filipe, kept reiterating how we were moving from the gorgeous area to the cold, rainy Atlantic region. Actually, I liked them both!

But the bus ride up through Pinhão to the village of Provesende was so out-of-this-world GORGEOUS, I couldn’t stop taking pictures. Every time I’d go to put my phone back in my purse, I’d find myself sticking the lenses against the bus window again. We even stopped on the way for one quick photo opportunity. We knew this visit was going to be a quick trip because the boat was leaving the dock to meet us in Regua again before we went back to Porto that afternoon. We considered staying on the boat because we knew how pretty the journey would be. Still, since the bear was feeling well enough to do things, he didn’t want to miss another day. And, AGAIN, so glad we went! If we stayed on board, we could have had a walking tour in Regua, but we really kinda did that on our own at the beginning of the trip.

We began wandering another quaint village, again with so many empty homes, and always another church…

Then, we went to Morgadio da Calçada. Here we had a chance to explore the lovely bed and breakfast, watch a basket weaving demonstration and sample and buy some excellent Niepoort produced port, grown at the manor house.

After our quick trip, we returned to the boat. Lunch was an all seafood buffet as we took off less than five minutes after we arrived on board. They were QUICK with pulling up that gangplank. That afternoon, we participated in a local cheese, meats, and sausage pairing by our wonderful chef and sommelier.

Once back in Porto, we had the opportunity to attend a concert at the Sao Francisco Church. Again, we discussed the possibility of not going. I’m not sure why we even bother having this discussion all the time! We ALWAYS end up going and always being glad! We took the short walk to the beautiful church where a string quartet accompanied two opera singers with some of the most recognizable and beautiful music ever – whether it was Mozart or West Side Story, the sound was clear and beautiful. As they ended with “Con te partirò,” I was wiping the tears streaming down my face.

Once back on the boat, Guido led us in a fabulous music quiz which involved a lot of “bonus points” for doing various things, so the very competitive bear ended up belting “Sweet Caroline” into a microphone and “encouraging” me to join a conga line as we did “The Locomotion” around the whole third deck. We didn’t win, but we did come in third place.

We knew we had one day left of our trip, and both of us were still feeling a little sad that we had missed the Lello bookstore before the start. When we heard the briefing letting us know that our afternoon in Porto would be free, we went to the website to buy a “ticket” and schedule a time to visit. The bookstore tickets aren’t actual tickets – they are 8 euro vouchers that can be redeemed for purchase, but without a voucher and a time, without a tour, you are unlikely to get in.

The last day was one of the hardest choices for me for excursions. We knew we didn’t need to do the tour of the city because we had already done the main focal points for that, and we didn’t really need to go to ANOTHER church, but the other two choices were to go to Guimarães to see the palace and the city… OR to Quinta da Aveleda for the gardens and the tasting. Well, usually if the option says “tasting,” I’m there, so off we went.

The garden here, OH MY! Have I said a few times during these blogs “the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen?” Well, when everything is “the most beautiful” I have to keep repeating it. It was a traditional English garden – only not so traditional. It combined the redwoods of California with the eucalyptus of Australia with the cherry blossoms of Japan, all making for one incredible family retreat just outside the winery itself. All full of wildlife: ducks, peacocks, and even miniature goats who were glad to greet any visitor handing them a treat from the ground.

We got to wander through the huge cave where they were making their own brandy before trying some of the wines grown on their property.

Back to the boat for the last bus ride before we were on our own for the afternoon. This time, we were FAR smarter as we went to the top of Porto – we called an Uber! We probably could have made use of the hop-on-hop-off bus, too but the Uber was easy and inexpensive. The line for our chance to look around the bookstore wound around the block, but it was very well managed, and we got in within fifteen minutes of our selected time. It was definitely the MOST touristy place we’d been to on our trip, and somewhat overwhelming, but every bit as beautiful as we expected.

We wandered our way slowly back down the streets of Porto, stopping in interesting stores to look at souvenirs and stores full of MASSIVE collections of port wines. The riverfront was VERY lively on this Sunday evening- musicians playing everywhere, indoor and outdoor restaurants open, people walking everywhere!

And then, just prior to dinner, our boat left the dock one last time to do the “six bridges tour” where we began at the mouth of the Atlantic ocean and made our way back to our final point for the last time, having the opportunity to observe the houses and the graffiti along the banks. Again, we were told that our trip was too short and we should do the 10 day trip instead. Already, we’re considering booking that for October 2026.

Our final dinner included one of the best lamb chops I had ever had! And just like that, it was time to say our goodbyes and have our luggage ready for pick up the next morning.

We received notification the next morning that our flight would be delayed for an hour- no big deal, we had PLENTY of time in Newark. When we let the tour directors know, they also delayed our transfer an hour, which was lovely!

The Porto airport is small and easy, and everyone can have lounge access if they pay for it. We had ours included with our business class flights. It made me smile that even at the airport, you could get the wonderful tarts and cod dumplings!

We had made a pretty big mistake that I’m glad didn’t turn out to be a tragedy! We realized that no one had so much as glanced at our passports when we got off the plane in Portugal, but we didn’t think much of it. When our flight started boarding, we went to go to the gate only to find that we were to go through passport control AFTER the lounge, and there was QUITE a line. OOOPS!!! We won’t make that mistake again (maybe). In the end, the line only took us about 10 minutes, and we were fine – our flight had been delayed by a few minutes more.

We had a relatively small plane to go back to the US. It only had one aisle and business class on United was a 2/2 configuration. All seats behind us were 3/3. Still, the flight was comfortable, the wine and food were good, and the view of New York coming into Newark was lovely.

And being delayed in Porto was actually an advantage because it cut our 5-hour layover in half! We arrived from Newark back in Austin at just before midnight -exhausted and trudging to our Lyft, but had an AMAZING journey.

We still have a few more little trips before next summer, but our next BIG trip is Tauck on the Seine for Paris to Normandy in June 2025. We can barely wait for that adventure, but for now, I was so glad to get to spend time with this one again!

Delightful Douro: Days 4 and 5 of 7

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It’s so weird, by day four of every trip, I start to feel like it’s getting a little too long. I’m surprised that we’re only half way through, and I start wondering if I made a mistake booking. But always, by day seven, I’m sad it went so fast and wish I could have more time.

So on the morning of Salamanca, I was going back and forth in my brain. Is it going to be too hot? Do I really want to go for an hour and forty minute bus ride- each way? In the end OF COURSE I went, and OF COURSE I was glad! It was our one day in Spain. I was bummed to realize that I had gone to bed early the night before and forgotten that the Flamenco dancers were going to be on board! I was sad to have missed them. Anyway, on our day in Spain it was SUPPOSED to be in the 90s. It said so all week, but I had EXTRAORDINARY luck with the weather, and it never got above 84. It stayed cool and breezy in the shade. The same had been true all week. We had AMAZING weather. I don’t know that I would want to do this cruise in August, but I sure do want to do it again in October.

All free bags of laundry needed to be done by the fifth day of the tour, so that morning, we shoved our laundry bag FULL and left it on the bed. The bear and I are not small people, and I managed to get a pair of capris and a shirt in there, and the bear got two full days worth of clothing, including all undergarments, all in the same bag.

Sadly, he was starting to feel some tour effects that morning. Too much drinking, too much eating and just some regular tummy tightness. Regardless, he was up for the day. We had a quick pit stop about an hour into the ride at a lovely Casa Conrado for coffee and restrooms. It looked like I would expect a café in Spain to look!

Then, off again for the last 45 minutes of the trip. By the time we got to Salamanca, the bear was feeling a little worse for the wear from the winding roads. Still, he started to perk up some after we got off the bus.

In Spain, we met with a local guide. Many of the times in Portugal our tour directors doubled as local guides. They were all Portuguese people, often from villages just kilometers away from where we visited. Our guide started us in Plaza Mayor, surrounded by the golden buildings of Salamanca.

From there, we went to visit the central market for some lovely olive and Iberico ham.


Then, we wandered the city streets past the old location of the university and gorgeous parks. We ended up at the Cathedral. We got to hear the story of why the frog is on the front of the university and how an astronaut made its way into the beautiful sculpted baroque and gothic mixture in the sculptures on the cathedral entrance.

After this, we had nearly three hours of free time. What the bear and I have learned is that we are TERRIBLE at free time. We’re not shoppers. We could have gone to a couple of museums, including an art deco one, but three hours to fill is a lot for us. Since we knew in advance that we would have time in the city, we did some research and found a one Michelin star restaurant just a 10 minute walk from the cathedral. We LOVE one Michelin star spots because they’re usually wonderful without being pretentious or fussy, so off to Víctor Gutiérrez we went! I asked the bear if he was sure he was okay because I didn’t know if a 13 course lunch menu would be good in his tight tummy, but he thought he would be fine.

The restaurant was very small, but it didn’t matter that we didn’t have a reservation. We had emailed the day before to see what the dress code was, and there wasn’t one at all, so it was fine that the bear was in shorts and I had was wearing a summer dress. There were only about six tables total in the restaurant, but we were able to walk in, and the server remembered us from our email. We were not expecting them to speak English, but it was a pleasant surprise that she did. There is no menu; it was a prix fixe of wonderful goodness with a wine pairing if you like. I chose not to do the pairing, but took sips of the bear’s wine to try.

This Peruvian, Japanese, Spanish infusion meal was so thoughtful and so lovely. It had the best “kale chips” I’ve ever had. But by the time we got to the tennis ball sized filet with the meat course, I was so full I could only take few bites – a shame because the merengue dessert was so lovely and delicate. It was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten! For the two of us it was right at 200 euros, which we felt was more than reasonable. We’ve been known to spend a lot of money on pairing menus in the past (looking at you Joel Robuchon). This fabulous meal did the PERFECT job of filling our free time and our tummies. We walked back to Plaza Mayor with about 30 minutes left to do a lap of the square and look down the side streets.

The winding bus ride on the way back to the ship was tough on on the bear. We did make another stop at the café on our return to be sure we never spent more than an hour riding.

When we got back to the room, all of our laundry was done, pressed, and folded. After such a long day, we ordered some light room service for dinner, but I couldn’t resist getting one of those amazing Portuguese tarts straight from the oven! Room service came quickly, and you could order anything you want from the room service menu OR from the restaurant at any time for no extra charge. There’s a mirror behind the photo, so you ARE seeing double. Since our room didn’t have a balcony, there was no table, so we just put the food on the small vanity and ate in bed.

I went up to the deck that night to catch the sunset before putting a period at the end of the day. I watched the dance party under the stars that our amazing entertainment director, Guido, had put together and considered participating. Instead, I decided that fantastic bed was calling me.

The next morning the bear was still struggling, so I set off for the excursion solo. I could either go see a museum of rocks in the Coa Valley or tastes of sugared almonds and olive oil. THIS decision was one of the easiest for me, so off to more food I went! The village was tiny but beautiful. It did, however, make me sad. Portugal has one of the lowest birth rates in the world and the population is forever getting smaller. Each of these quaint villages is full of empty houses because people have left to find other work in other parts of the world, and Portugal itself is getting left behind.


We had a chance to stop at the home of the lovely Isabel. She is the 6th generation to live in the house and her daughter Andrea stays there with her. She teaches cooking classes at her home, Casa Painova. This is one of the opportunities that is only available to Scenic cruises to come join her for demonstrations. I was so mad at myself! I forgot to bring any money with me, so I wasn’t able to buy their olive oil or almonds! It’s easy to forget your money on a Scenic cruise. Everything is prepaid, so you’re never having to take out cash for anything.

On the way back, we stopped briefly at a lookout point, and I saw one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen in my life. But it seems I say that A LOT on this trip! They were ALL gorgeous!


When I got back to the boat, the bear was still having a hard day. I tried to get him to take a Zofran. I always get some prescribed for trips where I think it’s possible one of us could end up feeling sick, but he still thought he might be feeling better on his own. I knew our cruise was starting again, and I wanted to be up top. Plus, we had been informed that there would be a traditional Portuguese BBQ.

I felt terrible for the bear because he wanted to partake so badly. He LOVES sardines and cod and all of the things that I mostly tolerate. I tried them.. AND the Morcela (pigs’ blood and rice made into sausage). I’m always willing to try EVERYTHING. I tell people I would have eaten the bat soup in Wuhan, and I’m not kidding. Now, there is A LOT I don’t like, but I’m always glad I tried. The sangria with the BBQ was WONDERFUL.


After the bear went back down to the cold, dark cabin, I grabbed my book and watched the scenery go by (and drank a little more sangria). I am NOT the cook in our house, he is, but I was in LOVE with those Portuguese custard tarts (Pasteis de Nata). There was a cooking class going on, and I assumed (correctly) that if I went, I would get one!

After that, there was a lecture on cork (Portugal produces most of the world’s cork) and a trivia game I could have attended, but I decided that the deck and the vinho verde were calling to me.

At this point, the bear did decide to try a Zofran, and within a short time he was feeling human again. It may have been the Zofran, it may have been just the time, but we were BOTH so glad it could come out and be among the living again- albeit carefully at first.

There were more games and a band on board that night, but we went to bed quite early. The turndown service still came by and gave us our nightly chocolates and the minibar restocker brought me more diet Coke and a bottle of wine. We said those people were like ninjas! They were in and out of our room with service so quick it was amazing. We decided to make it a movie night. There was a pretty good selection on the in-room television. We had already watched the documentary A Year in Port , which I would HIGHLY recommend. It could be good to watch BEFORE you go, but I may watch it again after because I got to see all of the places mentioned. Instead, we watched Sully, because who doesn’t like to watch movies about airplanes crashing in New York two days before they fly into New York?

We thought we heard the music start upstairs in the lounge and were surprised by how loud it was. Turned out, it was a festival outside, as we realized when we heard cannon shots the next morning to start our final day in the port wine region- which will also lead me to my final blog of this journey…

Delightful Douro: Travel and Day 1 of 7

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The bear and I did river cruise #2 and our third trip to Europe as something of a happy accident. After our Uniworld Cruise on the Rhone and our land tour through Tuscany with Tauck, we decided we’d like to do another river. I had really wanted to go to Spain, but there were no opportunities for river cruises. I THOUGHT the bear said, “I’ve always wanted to go to Portugal” So after going into research mode, it seemed like Scenic would fill the bill with some of the larger rooms and our requirements. We like a luxury tour with all of the logistics handled for us. We also like an all inclusive including tips, excursions, and all alcohol (at all times) on the boat. There are only four companies that do that: Uniworld, Tauck, Scenic, and now Riverside, who bought the Crystal fleet.

As happy as we were with Uniworld, and we were QUITE happy, I’d say we were even happier with Scenic because of a few minor touches here and there. Next year we travel with Tauck on a river cruise from Paris to Normandy. Anyway, when I told the bear that I had scheduled a cruise in Portugal, he told me that he’d never mentioned that’s where he wanted to go. So, our trip was a happy accident. In the end, he decided he wished we’d stayed longer and wants to go back…

Regardless, off to Portugal we went!

We left Austin on Saturday, July 6, for our Monday cruise. We were BRIEFLY delayed in the Austin airport due to lightning, but no big deal because we were flying KLM business class direct to Amsterdam, so we had access to the Delta Sky Lounge, which was lovely. The bear insists on business class for flights of more than 6 hours, and I can’t say that I will ever complain. The price of our flights, however, are generally almost as much as the whole vacation, so I try to make sure to buy one of the tickets with credit card points to take the sting out of it. We LOVE our Chase Sapphire Reserve for all of the included benefits (Door Dash, Priority Pass, Instacart, Global Entry, TSA PreCheck, Travel Insurance and more), but REALLY love it because we generally get enough points a year for one round trip business class ticket. We did this year.

We love the flights where everyone gets their own cubby… KLM was PRETTY good, and you do get the cute little gin filled houses at the end when you fly with them. We just wish there had been more storage around the seats themselves. Also, we were both VERY warm on the flight. We should have complained, but didn’t… so neither of us slept as well as we would have liked on the 8 1/2 hour overnight flight, thus, we were groggy and grumpy for our 2 hour layover in Amsterdam. From there, another 2 1/2 hour flight on a small plane into Porto before we were quickly greeted and whisked away to The Intercontinental Hotel in the heart of the city. Since we booked the hotel with Scenic, we got transfers included from airport to hotel, then hotel to boat the next day. My sister-in-law, Andrea, is an amazing travel advisor which can be important when you book with Scenic because they’re not necessarily the best at communication prior to cruising. You may be better off having someone do the legwork for you.

Knowing that there may be many things closed in Porto on Sunday, the bear had done some research beforehand for a place to go get a bite to eat. So after our 18 hours of travel, we cleaned up, had a drink in the BEAUTIFUL hotel bar (pro tip- if you’re an IHG member- which is free to join- they give you a voucher for two drinks when you check-in), then set off on the streets to find Orpheu.

There was A LOT going on in the city, and I don’t think I knew how hilly it was going to be, but we were feeling pretty good, and Google maps was kind to us as we weaved into a spot off the beaten path. It was in an alleyway behind a street. The outside tables were set up on stairs outside, and we were served INSIDE the restaurant through an open window. The temperature was PERFECT (in the 60s and sunny). We ordered WAY too many tapas, but enjoyed our sardines and our traditional sausages before we took the rest back to the room to have for breakfast the next morning.

Since I knew we’d have the morning free and I wanted a chance to see as much of Porto as I could, I had prearranged a private walking tour through Viator. I had watched and read a MULTITUDE of “What to do in Porto” videos and ALL included a visit to the Lello bookstore. Viator contracted out to Castro Travel and we were to meet with Diogo at 9 on our first morning. I woke up somewhat jet lagged and oddly shaky, sweaty and out-of-sorts. Then, I used a sunscreen that kept getting in my eyes, so I wasn’t feeling great, but I was still excited to see the city.

Diogo was prompt and met us right at our hotel for our private tour. We took off to the streets first stopping at the iconic train station. Tiles are all over the buildings in Porto, but the ones in the train station were breathtaking! There’s also a cool food hall called the “Time Out Market” adjacent to the train station that has some of the best chefs doing pop-up food stands all day long.

Then, we really started walking up our first hill, For context, Porto starts at about sea level and then climbs to 240 feet in a distance of only a little more than half a mile. Roads in most cities are considered “steep” at about a 10% grade. Many of the grades in Porto go from 15% to 20%. It is challenging walking around Porto. And it’s all on cobblestone. So we went to see where the public hangings used to occur and looked out over the city. Still, I felt shaky… and began to feel sick. This is the TMI part of this blog, but… I had the need to go back down the hill to visit a Starbucks restroom. Bathrooms in Europe are often difficult- and this one was no different. It was down a narrow winding staircase… So I shakily made it there – and immediately threw up.

Good news? I started to feel a bit better. We then walked up the hill again and around the corner to one of Porto’s lovely six bridges to look at the city below. Then, Diogo asked us if we wanted to walk down to the waterfront. This was a mistake on our part because we decided it would be a good plan. So we wound down, down, down, through the old cobblestone streets- VERY slowly because of shaking knees and shaky me. The waterfront was VERY quiet in the morning. (We went back on Sunday evening, and it was lively and fun). Then, it was time to trek back up the hill.

Much to my embarrassment, this proved too much for me. I did make it back to the top, but felt TERRIBLE. I apologized to the bear and to DIogo and cut our 3 hour trip into only an hour and a half. I was done. Diogo mentioned that we could take our time and that he knew I still wanted to go to the bookstore. I thought about it and asked him where it was. He said “Thirty meters.” I thought about it again and then he said, “But it’s straight up.”

Unfortunately, I was done. Whether it was jet lag, my being out of shape, the food from the last night… who knows. I told the bear he should continue, and I’d take a rest. He chose not to continue the walk either. I felt bad that I had ruined our morning, but later he admitted that the walk was more strenuous than HE thought it would be, too. I mentioned it to our driver back to the airport on Sunday, and he said, “I don’t know why ANYONE tries to walk up and down those roads. I tell everyone to take the cable car up to the top and walk down – slowly.” Well, our hindsight is 20/20.

Fortunately, however, once back at the hotel, I was able to take about 45 minutes to regroup, and then told the Bear that at the very least we needed to go see the Bolhao market. We also wanted to go see a shop that we had seen Jamie Oliver visit on a YouTube show. So off we went to A Pérola do Bolhão. We got some tasty cookies and sardine pate there before making our way to the two-story market! So glad we went back out!


After finishing there, we returned to the hotel and our transfer came to take us to the boat with two other couples – one from the US, one from Australia. That was one of the fun parts of this ship. Scenic is an Australian company and had a more diverse population than Tauck and Uniworld. I would say that only about 15 to 20 percent of the passengers were American. The largest group seemed to come from the UK.

I chose Riverview suite 221 on the boat. It is the only one of its kind. It has the full wall window, but it does not have a small balcony like the other rooms. This one tiny difference saved me about $1,000. I knew that we would spend minimal time in the room, but I didn’t want one of the lower deck rooms with just a small window. I also loved that it had an included minibar, which could be customized, and one free bag of laundry done per trip. (Plus, you could have two items pressed each day.)

The boat has four decks. The bottom deck has the small rooms and the galley, the second deck (mine) has the large dining hall and the gym. The third deck has the bar, the larger suites, and the small dining room (Portobellos) where every guest is invited once per cruise. There is also the “river cafe” in the bar which offers lighter lunch options and a case of snacks that is always available and always changing. They have a very fancy coffee maker as well! The fourth deck is the top of the boat, including a covered area for sitting and a small pool. We saw a YouTube video before we went that we thought explained things quite well and very accurately.

Like most river cruises, every night before dinner there was a cocktail reception and a briefing of the things to come. Unlike other river cruises, the boats on the Douro only sail during daylight hours because the river is so narrow.

All three meals were included every day on the boat (except for lunch the Salamanca day). Breakfast was always the same, but it was an extensive buffet, or you could order special eggs to the table. Lunch was also a buffet, including a carving station – or you could get the lighter fare of sandwiches or snacks at the river cafe in the bar. Then, dinner was always a three course meal with LOTS of options, including pages of wine choices that were all included. This is just a sampling of some of the food including room service and the decadent tarts- Pasteis de Nata- that you could find EVERYWHERE. (I will likely include more specific food pictures in later blogs- particularly our night at Portabellos).

We ended most nights on the boat with a port or a port cocktail! I didn’t even know those existed, but now I know I love port and ginger ale…


At the end of each night, the schedule for the next day would be on the television in the room and on all the televisions on the ship. There were usually PLENTY of choices! In general, there were about three choices for the morning and sometimes more in the afternoon. And there were always activities occurring on the ship. All of these are included.

But for the first day of sailing, there was only one excursion. It was to be a museum in Regua after we set sail at 545 AM. After a long two days, it was nice to sleep in our VERY cold (by our choice) room on one of the most comfortable beds I’ve ever slept in – ever!

This was a lot of blog for the first in a series, and the boat isn’t even moving, yet…